Here is the Champagne lineup, which frankly, was all I was focused on:
- NV Varnier Fanniere BdB
- NV Gaston Chiquet BdB
- NV Billiot Cuvee Laetitia (actually a solera)
- 2001 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee
- 2002 Goutourbe Special Club
- 2002 Pierre Peters Chetillons
- 2002 Chartogne-Taillet Fiacre
- 2003 Pierre Peters BdB
- 2004 Gimonnet Fleurons BdB
I've actually been fortunate enough to try all of these wines before but tasting them alongside each other was a revelation for how distinct they were, and was another argument in favor of "terroir."
Sniffing the Varnier Fanniere was a great example, it clearly showed off it's pencil lead aromas associated with the vines in Avize.
The 02 Pierre Peters Chetillons was such a complete wine even in its youth, it and the 01 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee stole the show. The latter wine is almost beyond description and is certainly a singular wine.
Amazingly these wines are always fairly priced when compared to their large-house brethren. At a recent single-blind tasting, the 02 Gourtourbe Special Club (approx. $70) dusted some heavyweights, such as 1996 Krug (approx. $250+) and 1996 Dom Perignon ($260+), with its rich flavors.
Some argue that there aren't enough aged examples to judge how they might taste years from now. There could be a point there.
But even so, if a wine tastes incredible in its youth - is that pleasure any less or diminished versus one that has a couple of decades of age and drinks well?